Traveling through Japan for four weeks held a lot of surprises and new findings for me that I personally was not aware of or simply did not know any better. Funny, how your pre-assumptions, stereotypical & unconscious biased ways of thinking are continuously being challenged through intercultural encounters when traveling, opening up totally new perspectives. In this blog entry, let me share my most surprising key findings below!
Content Overview on Unexpected Japan Insights:
Do you want a plastic bag?
Plastic is a big thing in Japan. Literally everything you buy comes in plastic and you will be offered plastic bags on every counter when purchasing goods. But it is not only the outer wrapping that is covered in plastic, mostly also things inside the package you buy, e.g. wrapped chocolates, plastic spoons that come along with yogurt, chop sticks handed out when buying a salad, etc.
The more shocking insight and learning for me is that Japanese actually burn their plastic trash, even openly in the countryside, as I was being told from two travellers having had worked on an apple farm. So, my personal assumption of Japan being a visionary in paving a green future ahead was certainly shattered and put into question.
Where are my vegetables?
Coming to Japan and being well aware that this country is both known and famous for its healthy and balanced diet, I was expecting to find a great variety of colourful dishes with loads of vegetables and fruits, combined with tasty Ramen, rice and Udon dishes.
The funny truth is, however, that most of the things I have been eating throughout my entire travels have solely relied upon carbohydrates (rice, noodles and more rice) as well as meat and fish. In addition, fried foods (mainly tempura or deep fried snacks, such as Takoyaki) as well as various forms of sweets can be found on every corner, sometimes making me think: a) how can Japanese people be so slim and b) how in the world are they considered to be the worlds healthiest nation on this planet?!
The only vegetables I have seen on my plates were pickled reddish, eggplant, cucumber or pickled cabbage. You can of course buy smaller salads at the store (interestingly both veggies and fruit prove to be quite expensive), but if you are looking for a veggie loaded dish, western-influenced restaurants will most likely be your number one restaurant to look out for.
Talking to vegetarians and vegans along my trip proved my assumption that is is indeed a bit difficult, especially for vegans, to find suitable places to eat at, especially since most broths are made from pork or chicken stock. Vegetarian options, in contrast, are a bit easier, though I believe, that Japanese truly treasure their meats, e.g. Kobe Beef, Wagyu.
I did, in fact, stick to eating my way through Ramen, Onigiri, Udon and other delicious non-vegetable street foods, because in the end, when will I have the chance to try these foods again after returning, right?! But I was honestly speaking also looking forward to getting back into my normal eating routine after my four weeks travels had ended.
Sorry, we are closed!
I noticed that most restaurants open earliest between 10 - 11:30am, with a very few exceptions, making it difficult for early birds, like me, to find a nice breakfast location to enjoy. But that's not all: usually, these shops will close again after lunch time (e.g. from 2, 3pm onwards, only re-opening their premises from earliest 5, 6pm onwards. Some shops even close entirely after lunch, meaning they will only be opened until e.g. 3pm. Dinner restaurants usually open between 5 and 6pm.
In general, it is to say that a lot of local shops tend to close quite early, even on weekends. I remember an Italian couple I met, wanting to enjoy some nice street food at Chinatown in Kobe around 8:30pm. Based on Google, these shops & stores should have remained open 24/7 but once arrived in Chinatown literally everything was closed. Hence, selected placed do close their premises at 7, 8 or 9pm, whereas others are kept open until midnight or even longer.
If you have picked out a restaurant spot of favour, I recommend checking on opening and closing times or alternatively speak to some locals giving you advise, that is the safest route to go, speaking from own experiences.
Cash only!
I recall talking to some friends prior to my trip, who recently visited Japan, telling me that your credit card is sufficient to travel-and survive in Japan. I was quite pleased and thought to myself: just like China, all cashless payments, easy!
Based on my experiences, this is simply NOT the case. A lot of restaurants, bakeries, souvenir shops and even temple, museum or other sightseeing attractions rely on cash payments only. Therefore, I highly recommend to exchange some money up front to be prepared. If you run out of cash at any point in time, you will always have the possibility to easily withdraw some more at most convenient stores.
Turn left. Wait, what? Google Maps at war!
I cannot tell you whether it is my phone, my Google Maps or just bad luck, but I noticed that my Google Maps does and did not always properly work in Japan, even though I had a data-unlimited eSIM. This being said, I do not mean that Google Maps showed me the wrong routes, no. But it did show me a ten times more complicated route with several turns to the left and right-hand side, whereas I could have just walked straight ahead. Maybe this is also why sometimes you might find funny reels on social media in which people keep turning left and right without really knowing where to go when trying to find their way through Japan.
To give a bit of proof to my finding, one of my Australian Hostel-mates confirmed my observation, stating that he has had the same troubles with routes on his phone. So, in case you might stumble across this finding as well, please let me know that I am not the only one!
Romanticisation of German Christmas Markets & Delicacies
All Christmas markets I have visited in Japan, e.g. in Tokyo, Nagoya, Kobe, Osaka, have one thing in common: they are all oriented towards "German styles", meaning typical German dishes, such as Bratwurst, Sauerkraut and Glühwein (mulled wine) are being offered at extremely high prices to customers. I am not in the position of judging the food, which, in most of the cases, does not have anything to do with what is actually being offered at a German Christmas Market back home (no, a Hot Dog sandwich and/or sausage os usually not being sold). But I must admit, it is a catchy marketing campaign that works out nicely for most vistors. Plus, I find it charming, honourable and sweet that Japan is making a huge effort in bringing foreign Christmas vibes to their country via romanticising German Christmas traditions. With their own individual twist, German delicacies are offered in a slightly different and adjusted taste versions, which are fun to try out!
I, of course, had to try tried the mulled wine, which was a refreshing and less sweet version, pimped with raspberries, rosmary, pomegranate seeds and orange slices that I really enjoyed (in comparison: we usually heat up red, white or rose wine, add Glühwein spice and sugar, sometimes a pinch of cinammon and liquor, if desired, such as whisky, . I also like the fact that "Stollen", as well as "Baumkuchen" is such a viral trend that people seem to love. Underlined by Christmas music, beautiful decorations, Christmas trees and dimmed lights, these markets gave abit of a home-bound feeling back to me. Definitely worth a try.
Standing left or right when taking the escalator?
When I first arrived in Japan, I has the assumption that you always stand on the left-hand side when taking the escalator (the right-hand side usually serves for people overtaking). However, this thinking pattern was in fact challenged several times.
Depending on your location, e.g. subway station, any kind of mall or even on the street, people tend to have different rules on which side of the path to walk. This means, sometimes, you will need to stick to left-hand side, sometimes to the right-hand side and other times, you will find yourself in a big, criss-crossed mingled mess. To me it just meant to go with the flow, but I have not been able to detect a common pattern and/or rule to solely stick to the left-hand side, as oftentimes promoted on the internet.
Hot coffee & tea in plastic bottles
I LOVE a good and hot coffe, especially on the go, for a quick break in between or right after getting out of bed. Grabbing one from the convenience store at first meant to go for the, at least for well-known, coffee automats. What I then dected blew my mind: coffee on shelves in convenience
When I firstly grabbed a bottled Espresso out of 7Eleven, I was surprised to feel a heated warmth around the bottle. Coffee and also tea come in either hot or cold versions to pick- and choose from. This does not only apply to convenience stores but also vending machines to be found on the street.
Smoking? No indication.
Are you a smoker or enjoy having a cigarette every now and then for the pure sake of taste and relaxation? Then, my friend, I feel very sorry for you, because Japan is probably one of the most smoking-unfriendly countries I have ever traveled to!
Smoking is prohibited almost everywhere, even on streets or in front of main buildings, such as train stations, restaurants, sightseeing attractions, unless you have a dedicated smoking area to go to. Being caught might be connected to a monatary fine and sometimes people will even approach you, emphasising that smoking on streets is not allowed.
The consequent question is therefore: what can you do?
You have several options: you can play hide and seek, try to squeeze in darker corners or side streets (usually that's where people tend to take a break to lit a cigarette, as they are not commonly seen by the main crowds), stick to people publicly smoking to not catch extra attention or politely ask someone where to find the closest smoking area spot (in a lot of cases, the answer will be "no smoking at all"). You can also approach police men, as sometimes they will tell you that you can smoke right in front of them if there is no where to go (which I find quite nice). A lot of convenience stores and bigger main building blocks also have signposted smoking areas to use.
Where can I put my garbage?
Finished a meal and would like to get rid of your garbage but cannot find a trash bin? That is, in fact, a common phenomen in Japan. Most people carry their trash with them until the end of the day to get rid of it back home, so my advise- and again we are at point one of m list, speaking of plastic- is to always take an extra plastic bag when purchasing something to collect your trash inside a closed container to not get your backpack dirty. Several trash bins for plastic bottles might be detectable next to vending machines on the street. For the rest, e.g. empty containers of food, chop sticks, etc. you will either need to finish your food at the stand yo bought it from and handover the trash to the people selling food, or you will need to carry it along.
If you think, you are smart litering everything in a public bathroom- please, don't do so! The signs specifically outline to not litter anything but hygiene articles. Also, as I have seen that quite frequent, it is not a nice option to just leave your garbage in some dark corner or next to a restaurant garbage bin.
An alternative and also convenient option is, however, to walk into any kind of convenient store, as they do have trash bins available at the coffee machines to use.
Facial masks are a thing!
Covid has passed, yes, but that does not mean that the need and/or requirment for masks totally fall out for some of us. In Japan, wearing facial masks is indeed a big thing! You will find people wearing masks on the streets, in shops and on the subway. Partially because they are sick and want to protect other people around them, partially because they want to protect themselves in breathing in chemicals, CO2 emissions from traffic or bacteria during winter time. In every case, it is mainly to respect one's environment and surrounding. Hence, if you have a slight cough or are not feeling well, it would only be polite to wear a mask in public, especially when moving inside closed rooms (if not, people might look at you either funn or even a bit disgusted, try it our yourself ;)).
Shhhh, not so loud!
You might have already heard that Japanese are a rather quiet nation, not seeking too much eye contact and rather minding their own business. This assumption might mainly come to the surface when taking the public transport. People are usually very quiet, either looking at their phones, day napping or looking out the window. They might even appear very introvert just by looking at them.
If you speak inside the subway, bus or any other public transport, you whisper or try to keep quiet. Cellphones are asked to be muted, likewise telephone calls shall not be held (there are even public announcements on the trains stating exactly this!). In my observation of people, I have also noted that in most cases, people are trying to avoid eye contact as much as possible and find it charmingly uncomfortable when you are trying to directly approach them with a question (this might be also be linked to lack of English language competencies, possibly). Of course, curious exceptions exist (I have had the pleasure to sit with a young woman, also an elderly man in a park who both wanted to practice their English with me, which I found super sweet!).
Also restaurant visits are usually not connected with a lot of (loud) talking. I remember a situation in which I and my American friend couldn't hold us back and bursted out laughing in front of a waiter due to some silly jokes. And even though he couldn't help himself but to laugh with us, he kept on saying "shhhh, not so loud, not so loud". Hence, keeping quiet is a matter of politeness that you should consider when coming to Japan.
Japanese convenience stores: your all time favourite food, toilet and emergency refuge
Needless to say that I am a big fan of Japanese convenient stores (a seperate post will follow on this!). What I find surprising, though, is that these stores do not solely sell foods and drinks by themself but also textile- and household items (e.g. socks, T-Shirts, facial masks, shamppo, body lotions, even gloves and winter tights as well as cleaning material are available), as well as office supplies. On top of all, you can heat up any purchased food (even with plastic on top) in a microwave, e.g. turn a brownie into a melted chocolate heaven desert, turn your simply cheese toast into a crunchy melt experience or heat up your bought Miso soup pot to enjoy whilst super hot.
Seating availabilities, including power plugs, are commonly given. In some cases, stores even offer a second floor with a dedicated smoking terrace and resting area options to enjoy a coffe and a good book. ATM machines are mostly also at-hand. And of course public toilets! And last can even be used by anyone at any time, even if you do not purchase any item in the store. So in case your bladder is close to an emergency outbreak, convenience stores are a simple and easy option to consider. Another big plus on the list is that convenience stores are mainly open 24/7!
Subway rules vs. taking the train
"Rules" applying to taking the subway or public buses apparently become obsolete when taking Japan's trains, especially the bullet train (Shinkansen). Whereas you are neither allowed to eat & drink, nor to talk loudly in the first two public transport options, the Shinkansen is a lively environment, in which Bento boxes, onigiri and loads of drinks, such as coffee, juices, teas are literally celebrated. Conversations are als being held at normal tone, so do not be shy or hesitate to take some foods and drinks on board for your trips. You can freely enjoy them. Simply ensure to take care of your trash and do not leave anything behind when stepping outside the train.
No check-in prior to 4pm!
Now, I can only speak for mainly hostel accommodation bookings, as I was trying to save some money during my trip, but here a clear pattern emerged, namely that check-in times were always very late (no earlier than 3 - 4pm in the afternoon). You can of course drop your bags at the reception, only sometimes, especially if you have had a rough night or long travel behind you, a warm shower or resting nap seem so tempting that, depending on what time you arrive, waiting until late afternoon can be quite exhausting. My consequent learning was to leave the place I've been to before at a later stage or alternatively use a coin locker at the nearest station. You can also check up front with your accommodation whether early check-in is possible.
Check-out in contrast usually ranges between 10 - 11am.
Aren't you cold? Japanese apparent cold- weather- resistancy
When I started my travels through Japan it was already late autumn and temperatures were rather low, steadily decreasing with each week closer to Christmas. I need to admit that I easily freeze and consequently came prepared with a winter jacket and the famous onion-look-method through putting four different shirts below my sweater to keep me warm and cozy. Whilst I was looking like living in the deepest far-off Siberian countryside, Japanese seem to have a resistancy when it comes to cold weather. I have observed a lot of people wearing T-Shirt, short pants, even skirts without any sort of tights, which I found both crazy and impressive. Seemingly, these people did not even feel a glimpse of cold, standing relaxed in queues of people, laughing and talking whilst I was dying along the freezing wind, wearing a thick jacket, scarf and hat. Even for a German coming from rather cold weather, this was definitely something that caught my attention!
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